Making Stages #2 - Hand Carving a Kitchen Spoon
- Dec 30, 2025
- 6 min read
In this article I am going to explain the stages I take to carve a wooden kitchen spoon. The design in this example is for a good general purpose spoon. This works well for various types of cooking, plus has a reasonable sized bowl for scooping and serving.
Please note. This article shows the steps, but not the techniques. Attempting this without the relevant skills may result in accidents, so please don't try unless you have the requisite ability or guidance from someone who has.
As with all my makes, we begin with splitting a log
In this case a nice straight bit of cherry donated by my favourite tree surgeons.
I have added a link at the bottom of this page in case you ever need one (no benefit to me, they're just really good and genuinely nice people!)
Tip: I use a different axe for splitting and removing bark. The one for carving is not used just in case there are any hidden surprises. That way I don't ruin a nicer (and usually more expensive) tool. My roughing axe is old and a bit tired, but that's fine.
As the pith (the centre where the growth rings originate) is where cracks can form, we need to ensure that is not part of the finished work, so here we are splitting across the pith, and will carve that away.
The next step is to remove the bark. If you don't know where the log grew, or how it has been transported or stored, then it is wise to be cautious. It's easy to miss hidden nails or grit which can easily damage tools.
Now we start thinking about the design.
As a quarter of a log is being used here (Picture 1), drawing a side and top profile is tricky, so there is a choice: either square up the sides with the axe, or work from an end profile.
As you can see, I took the latter option here as squaring up would mean removing a lot of material and reducing the size of the final work. And, well, I like making big kitchen spoons...
Next we flatten the top and bottom of the work using a carving axe, to approximately meet the and profile and remove the pith.
Now we can begin to work on the top profile, by adding a crank (an angle) between what will be the bowl and the handle. We use a carving axe and adze depending on the curve and angle being aimed for. Start first with a saw cut at the intersection and carving to this point to achieve the shape you want (Picture 5).
Once the crank is done, it's time to get the pencil out again, to draw an outline for the top profile.
This design is a general-purpose one, with a flared end which lends itself well to cooking all kinds of dishes, stirring and frying.
With the design drawn on the top it's time to get the carving axe out again and rough-shape the sides. Working towards the handle end we remove material to thin this down, being extra careful where the tools are close to your hands. Where there are curves we can use an adze - typically where the handle transitions to the bowl - as the radius of the tool is really helpful.
Then we work back down toward the bowl to cut off any fibres to reveal the rough handle shape from the top (Picture 5). I used my axe and adze for this, but if you're work is smaller you may get away with using a knife too.
Once we have the top and sides roughed out we can draw the side profile with confidence (Picture 6), so it's time to get the pencil out again...
This profile should be over-sized for now as we will likely make design and shape changes as the wood dries. Plus, if you are anything like me you will likely change your mind about how you want this to look as you go. Several times!
Now we work the back of the spoon handle and bowl.
Note. The choice of tool you use does depend on the size of your work but recommend the using an axe or adze for as long as possible because this allows maximum material removal.
Here I used a carving axe, to thin the handle with the help of an adze for the curve behind the bowl.
What you have now is what we call a blank.
The rough shape is done and from there you can use whichever tool you feel works for you to complete the spoon.
Note. Even though the rough shape is decided you can still make changes to the final look during subsequent carving.
You can also store the blank for future carving - it's quite common for makers to axe out multiple blanks at a time, and store them for carving later. Some makers sell blanks. A good way to store is in the freezer, as long-term in a bag you can find mould forms which can discolour the wood, and in time weaken it.
From here we are typically using different tools, and work first on two profiles:
1. Top Profile. i.e. when looking down from the top, carve the shape until it is how you want.
2. Side Profile. i.e. when looking from the sides, carving the shape you want.
By taking this approach initially, we can focus on the correct shape without getting side-tracked.
In Picture 8, I have used a knife and carved the sides so the top profile is what I want, noting that at this stage we don't take it to exactly the final shape - about 90% there is fine. It's not an exact science but having a bit left allows for any movement when the wood dries.
We now start work on the side profile and also the bowl itself. As mentioned before, this article isn't intended to describe techniques, but here I use curved knives to carve the bowl. A straight knife is used for the other surfaces on the top and bottom.
Note. Some makers use chisels, but adopting the process I use it's difficult to hold the work safely - something needed when using one. Some makers carve the bowl first, in which case you can clamp the work and safely use a chisel - it's just a matter of whichever approach you prefer.
Now we let the spoon dry for a while. How long depends on how dry the wood was to begin with, but I aim to leave mine in a dry dark place away from direct heat and drafts for several weeks at least.
For drying, I put my work-in-progress in a wicker basket so air can circulate. This helps consistent drying and avoids mould and fungus forming. The fibres in the wood contract during this stage meaning there may be some movement. This is why I don't finish mine in one sitting, aiming for the 90% mentioned.
This stage before drying is also known as 'green' - hence the term 'greenwood' carving.
Now, with newly sharpened tools we make gradually smaller cuts to finalise the shape.
Note. Another effect of drying is the wood will be harder which is why we take most of the material away while the wood is green. The benefit of this harder surface is that cuts made with sharp tools leave a fantastically shiny surface.
I very rarely use sandpaper to finish my spoons. The knife finish is great as the wood fibres are cut so is less 'fluffy' than sanded. As with the process I follow, though, this is purely a choice.
Once you are happy, make sure your spoon is fully dry. I like to give my work more time in my drying place, then burnish and apply oil.
This is a simple process of rubbing a smooth pebble over areas you want a smoother finish, apply a polymerising (setting) oil and letting it dry.
I use several pebbles I have found on walks for burnishing, and Odie's oil which is a sustainable, non-toxic, oil which spreads over a large area. (less than a quarter of a teaspoon covered this spoon). Link below, if you're interested.
Other oils makers use include walnut and linseed both-which polymerise and provide a resilient, non-toxic, finish although can take some time to set. I avoid mineral oils as they're not ideal for the environment and can be toxic. Oils which don't set can go off.
Thank you for reading this article. I will be adding more soon.
Feel free to contact me if you have any questions, or if you are interested in having a go at making one of these yourself.
All the best,
Russ
Links:
Tom Boswell Tree Surgeon (West London, UK): https://tomboswelltrees.com
Odies Oil (UK Distributor): https://odiesoil.co.uk
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